Metal Detector Basics
In this article, I am going to cover some of the metal detector how to basics, namely: selecting a metal detector, coil control, the truth about depth and accuracy, as well as discrimination. Metal detectors are useful for finding metallic objects buried in the ground. Though metal detectors will pick up a variety of metals including gold, silver, iron, brass, copper and even mercury amalgam deposits if the deposit is high enough, different models of metal detectors are better suited for different types of metal detecting as well as for specific types of metals.
Selecting a Metal Detector:
There are many different metal detectors available to choose from but not all are created equal and some are designed with a specific purpose in mind. Generally, there are two types of metal detector designs available. These are pulse induction and vlf or very low frequency. Pulse induction metal detectors can detect metal objects at greater depths than vlf, but they do not discriminate well. Vlf metal detectors can discriminate out unwanted targets, but are more limited in depth. Each has its advantages, depending on the type of metal detecting you are interested in doing.
When choosing a metal detector, first consider what you will use it for the most. Will you mainly hunt in parks, on the beach, underwater, in the gold fields, or near ghost towns. Next, look for metal detectors that are designed for your main area of use. The reason for this is that coin shooting metal detectors will not work well for prospecting and prospecting models often don't have the discrimination abilities that some park hunters prefer. While there are a number of multipurpose metal detectors out there, the ones that I have tried have been mediocre at best.
You would be better off purchasing a couple of used metal detectors to fit your different needs, than you would to buy a new multipurpose machine. One word of caution, generally what you pay for is what you get. Some of the cheap metal detectors on the market won't pick up a half dollar more than an inch or two below the coil in an air test. You will be very disappointed and probably give up before using a better unit. Generally, you will need to spend at least $150 for a decent entry level machine.
Coil Control:
Try and keep the coil close to the ground as you sweep the metal detector. This gets you as much depth as possible. Also, don't be in too bi of hurry. Going slower will allow you to hear the signals better and you may even miss some signals if you swing to fast. Also, don't raise the coil of the ground at the end of each sweep. Instead, try and keep it the same level off the ground at all times. Additionally, overlap your sweeps otherwise you are gonig to miss targets that someone else will get to find. Poor coil control is one of the reasons we can go to parks and other places and find things that others have missed.
Depth and Accuracy:
Any claims as to the depth capabilities of a metal detector are not a sure thing. Ground mineralization can greatly reduce depth. It can also make target identification less accurate. For this reason, do not be discouraged if you aren't getting the depth that a manufacturer claims. You might live in an area with mineralized soil.
Also, most metal detectors on the market can find coins up to 8" deep with some of the more specialized models punching into the teens. With the exception of some pulse induction machines, you shouldn't expect depths significantly greater than this. I personally view with skepticism any claims of exceeding great depths on coins. However, larger targets like a buried metal strong box can be picked up at a greater depth than can a single coin.
Discrimination:
This feature allows you to ignore specific types of targets. This can be helpful in areas with a lot of trash such as at some parks or places where you don't want to dig a lot of holes. Use discretion as good targets can also be missed by using discrimination. Well, good luck and happy hunting!